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Old 06-08-2010, 09:21 AM
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Default Clear/Polymer Stamps

I recently read a tip, and can't remember it now that I need it.

Is there a way to condition clear/polymer stamps so the ink doesn't bead up on it?
Was it to stamp in VersaMark first?
Was it to sand it with an emery board?

Andre, have you experienced my question and know the answer? TIA
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:31 AM
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I've had luck using chalk ink for first image, before using other inks (except not solvent inks). I've also heard that a light "sanding" with a fine emery board works, as well. Debra
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:00 AM
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Agreed, I have had very good luck using chalk ink on clear stamps. It does not break into beads on the surface of the stamp.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:20 PM
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Chalk ink first time is what everyone says and before using an emery board to sand the stamp, try using an eraser on it first. This has in most cases has worked for me, but then I don't have that many. Most of my stamp purchases are still rubber. HTH
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:55 PM
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Take care with an emery board, you could end up leaving scars or edge lines. A sheet of superfine emery or sand paper would be much safer.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:42 PM
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This is excerpted from the other topic on the board with some comments from me to open and close... I don't agree with all Andre's statements so am just posting what I do agree with...

Rubber is the only way to go for quality and detail.


The cheaper silicone stamps - I don't think will ever stamp as well as rubber. The material just does not exhibit the desired qualities of ink pick up and transfer as rubber. The ink has a tendency to bead up and provide less coverage with the silicone material.

Rubber: the surface of rubber is more porous. If you were to look at the rubber surface under a microscope you would see lots of tiny cups and valleys. This pocketed surface allows rubber to pick up and transfer more ink than the smooth surface of a photopolymer stamp.
Therefore, an image stamped with rubber is always going to be darker and more vibrant - because more ink has been transferred to the stamped surface.

Photopolymer - the surface of a photopolymer stamp is very smooth. It has been formed/hardened against a plate of glass. So the amount of ink that can sit on the surface of the photopolymer stamp is less than what sits on the surface of a rubber stamp.


IMHO, rubber gives you more detail and most of us use expensive magnesium plates rather than the cheaper rigilon plates and we use 11 point depth instead of 16 gauge. Memento pads are the best to use with copic markers but I understand they won't work on the polymer stamps... staz-on will work on polymer as it's for non-porous surfaces and will stain your stamps but that's not a big concern to me.

And Fab, I told you rubber absorbed ink.
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:06 PM
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Guess I never bothered to look at it with a microscope. But I guess it is true because you can often get a second, and sometimes even a third, impression from a well inked rubber stamp.
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fab View Post
Guess I never bothered to look at it with a microscope. But I guess it is true because you can often get a second, and sometimes even a third, impression from a well inked rubber stamp.
Especially, if you hawk on it like a cat coughing up a hairball... I do that when I've colored in a stamp with Marvy Brushes too.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:49 PM
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I call it huffing on the stamp, never heard hawk used this way before......lol
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Old 06-10-2010, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stampo View Post
... staz-on will work on polymer as it's for non-porous surfaces and will stain your stamps but that's not a big concern to me.
Yep, StazOn will work with polymer stamps right up to the point where the solvents eat the polymer.

When stamping on non-porous surfaces (i.e. glass, glazed ceramic tiles, plastic, metal etc), StazOn is intended for decorative purposes only. This means you can't wash what you've stamped on! You supposedly can use a slightly damp cloth to wipe dust off, but usually the ink just slides off when it gets wet. Also, StzOn takes about 72 hours to fully cure & heat setting doesn't work, it just dries the ink faster, it doesn't make it stick to non-porous surfaces. I got this info from Tsukineko after the StazOn ink on some stamped glazed cermaic tile coasters I had made literally slid off when I tried to wash coffee rings off of them.

Rubber can't be used with alcohol inks & polymer can't be used with solvent inks. Both work well with hybrid inks like chalk inks & Versafine.
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